Landscape photographers have always cherished the first and last few hours of the day, a time when the light is at its best to show off greater color and detail. But many of us walk away from the scene once the sun has crossed over the horizon. That’s a darn shame because twilight holds the potential for extraordinary photos, in my opinion.

The hour before sunrise and after sunset is known as the “blue hour”. That hour has been romanticized in both song and poem down through the ages. And it probably deserves a bit more respect from us photographers as well. In fact, it may be the best time of day to make moody images that are different from the rest of the pack.

In that brief interim between daylight and darkness, the landscape is veiled in a blue cast that seems to ooze a calming ambiance over the landscape. It tends to be a period of serenity, one that contrasts with the vivid drama of sunrise and sunset. A photo taken at Blue Hour frequently conveys a sense of quiet introspection.

Nubble Light

Jordan Pond

Old Eastham Windmill

Marshall Point Light

Eagle Lake

East Corinth

Mt. Washington Hotel

Point Judith Light

Stark Union Church

For purposes of photography though, Blue Hour is not really a full hour. In New England (twilight gets shorter as you get closer to the equator), it starts about 30 minutes before sunrise and 15-20 minutes after sunset, lasting no more than 15-20 minutes in duration. It’s a short window of opportunity alright, but one that’s well worth the wait and effort. My rule of thumb is to be in place — with camera ready on tripod — at least 30 minutes before sunrise. For sunset, I plan on staying 45 minutes after the sun has set.

Now, I’ll be the first to admit that it takes a nutty kind of dedication to be out making images at dawn and dusk, particularly during those cold New England months when Blue Hour can also be frosty. But once you witness the quality of that blue light, you’re likely to forget the ridiculous hour and start delighting in the creative process.

Photographing at twilight requires no special gear. Bring a snack, dress plenty warm, and relish in the quietude of the Blue Hour. Here are some additional tips that may be helpful in maximizing your twilight photography.

• Make sure your camera can take exposures of up to 30 seconds. You’ll be making long exposures when the sun is down.

• Always use a tripod. The only way to create sharp images in semi-darkness is by taking your camera out of your hands and standing it on solid ground.

• Take RAW files if your camera supports it. This will give you far more leeway in adjusting the exposure and white balance in post-processing.

• Use a cable release or self-timer to avoid camera shake. When making long exposures, any human contact with the camera may increase blur.

• Set your camera on aperture priority. When using a tripod, the shutter speed becomes less important than finding the optimal aperture for a composition.

• Use the lowest ISO possible. Twilight photographs are susceptible to noise due to the darkness and long exposure. Avoid noisy photos by using a low ISO.

• Play with the white balance setting. You can enhance the blueness of the hour by adjusting white balance. Experiment with the tungsten and fluorescent settings either in-camera or in post-processing the RAW file.

• Lens filters are not usually needed. The only exception is when shooting the horizon in the direction of the setting or rising sun. In that case, you may want a graduated neutral density filter (GND) to lessen sky exposure. (Jim Salge showed us how a winter scene can be improved with a polarizer here).

The only way you’ll know if you like twilight photography is to give it a try. I find that photos taken at that time tend to produce a certain WOW factor. Go ahead, go blue.

Mike Blanchette
Blanchette Photos